![]() Little chunks of rubber can migrate into the heat exchanger or the engine and cause overheating damage. ![]() If the impeller is in pieces, be sure to get all the bits out and be sure they are all accounted for. The tips of the vanes should be round, not flat, and there should be no cracked vanes or distortion in their shape. When the impeller is out, examine it closely. Some impellers are sealed onto their shafts with o-rings, a few (in some Volvo, Atomic Four and Universal engines) are held on with setscrews. Don’t use a screwdriver to lever it out, as this may score the soft bronze of the pump body and cause leaks. For easiest removal (or where the above tools don’t work) use an Impeller Puller Tool. Take the old impeller out by gripping the hub of the impeller using channel lock or needle-nosed pliers. Then, remove the pump's end cover screws and take off the cover and gasket. For raw water pump applications, first close the water intake thru hull valve. How to Change an Impeller in a Raw Water Pump ![]() Polyurethane impellers are used in that application. Ballast pumps, used on boats that tow wakeboarders, have unique requirements, needing to reverse direction and withstand systematic abuse. For transferring diesel fuel, use a sliding vane pump like the Jabsco Vane Puppy or Groco Flo-Master. Use nitrile impellers for bilge pumping and for transfer duties where water is heavily contaminated, for example by oil or diesel. Neoprene is suitable only for pumps where small amounts of oil or diesel fuel are present. Use neoprene impellers for engine cooling, and for fresh and salt water transfer duties. See the downloadable Jabsco Impeller Catalog below.
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